Showing posts with label chiang mai. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chiang mai. Show all posts

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Hanging out in Chiang Mai


Chiang Mai is a great city to just hang out in. Filled with temples, markets, book stores, cafes, fresh fruit smoothies and $5 massage shops, it's a city you could imagine never leaving. And judging by the looks of it, some people never do. You see many an aging hippy running around in their flip flops with their long gray hair and gray beards looking like they just forgot to go home 40 years ago. Yeah, Chiang Mai is that kind of place.



We only meant to stay here for seven nights but ended up spending 10. We were supposed to head next to an island on the Andaman coast, but because it's close to New Year's Eve, there are no rooms to be found anywhere. So we'll be making a detour and heading off to Siem Reap, Cambodia instead, home of Angkor Wat and other amazing ancient temples. So we bid Chiang Mai a fond adieu. We really enjoyed our time here.

















Monday, December 26, 2011

A surprise blessing

The other day we wandered into a quiet temple in the middle of Chiang Mai, and there sat a monk with a cat curled up at his side. He beckoned us over, had us kneel in front of him, and began chanting a blessing while tying a string around our wrists for good fortune.

He didn't speak any English, but he had the biggest smile on his face, and laughed while I (of course) played with his cat. It was such a wonderful moment.




Saturday, December 24, 2011

Best Christmas Eve ever


What better way to spend Christmas Eve away from home than volunteering with rescued elephants? We spent the day at Elephant Nature Park, a wonderful sanctuary for orphaned, injured and abused elephants.

The Thai people have a very conflicted relationship with elephants. These beautiful creatures are revered as a sacred religious symbol and are considered the emblem of the country. But in reality they are routinely exploited and abused. They used to be employed in logging camps, but when logging was outlawed, many elephants were abandoned or sent to work on the streets performing for tourists and begging for money. Today they are mainly used to give tourists rides through the jungle. Sadly, most of these tourists don't realize how these elephants were treated from the time they were babies.

There is an age-old tradition when training elephants from a very young age; the intention is to break their spirit. While at the sanctuary we watched a documentary that showed some men breaking a baby elephant. It was gut wrenching. They tie it up, poke it with sharp objects until it bleeds, hit it, and confine it to a small pen until it just gives up. This goes on for weeks. It was very tough to watch. You could see the fear and pain in the elephant's eyes, and hear it cry out. Then you could just see the light go out of its eyes. It is a cruel practice, especially when you know what loving, emotonal creatures elephants are. They mourn their dead, they form friendships, they protect each other's babies. They are very much like us.

The woman who founded Elephant Nature Park is working to change how elephants are treated in her society. She wants to work with villagers and mahouts (elephant trainers) to outlaw that method. She has taken in dozens of elephants that were badly mistreated or orphaned and given them a lifetime home. Which, for an animal that can live to 70, is no small thing.

We heard many heartbreaking stories that day, but the one that brought me to tears was the story of an elephant who was working at a logging camp and was being forced to work even as she was giving birth to her baby. As the baby was born it rolled down a hill and died. The mother elephant was so distraught she refused to work for days after that. In order to make her work, her mahout blinded her in both eyes.

Man's capacity for cruelty never ceases to amaze me.

There were many other sad stories, but each of these elephants has now ended up in the happiest of places. The sanctuary is located about an hour's drive north of Chiang Mai. The elephants have an enormous property to wander around on and many friends to hang out with. Each elephant has its own mahout, but these mahouts don't carry sticks, they form a relationship based on trust with their elephant and care for them.

As volunteers for the day, we got to feed the elephants their meal of watermelon and squash. You have to put the food near the tip of their trunk and let their trunk curl around it so they can put it in in their mouths. My favorite elephant to feed was a blind one, because you had to help guide her trunk to the food in your hands, so there was a lot of contact. She was so sweet.


After feeding time, we got to take the elephants into the river and give them a bath, which required us to throw buckets full of water at them. They were very good sports.

Of course after we bathed them, they went to a big mud puddle and proceeded to cover themselves with mud, which helps protect their skin from the sun. It was a blast to sit and watch them play in the mud, especially the babies, who rolled around and sat on each other.

Being at the elephant sanctuary was such an amazing experience, I wish we'd been able to volunteer for a week. To be able to walk among these incredible animals was a dream come true.

To donate to this wonderful cause, visit www.elephantnaturepark.org.

And now on to a ridiculous number of elephant photos.













Thursday, December 22, 2011

Exploring Chiang Mai


Chiang Mai is full of amazing temples, and most of those we've visited here have been quiet and empty but for the monks and nuns who live on the temple grounds. The temples are breathtaking in their opulence. Each is surrounded by naga, which are dragons/serpents who act as Buddha's protectors. Golden bells hang from the red-tiled roofs and gently chime in the breeze, and the smell of incense is always in the air. Temples are like balm for the soul.


It's pretty funny, though, to see monks talking on their cell phones or walking around in their orange robes with ear buds in listening to their ipods. We had a monk the other day show us photos on his iphone of the squirrels he feeds everyday on the temple grounds.

Chiang Mai is also home to an amazing night market where, just like at Chatuchak market in Bangkok, you bargain for everything. The food here has been amazing, thanks to the bevy of vegetarian restaurants, and we're addicted to banana rotee, which are basically crepes filled with bananas and covered in chocolate sauce and sweet condensed milk and made by street vendors.



Overall Chiang Mai has a more European flair than I expected, but still very much feels like Thailand. It has lots of little open-air cafes serving amazing fresh fruit juices and smoothies and delicious food, and you can't walk five feet without seeing a shop that offers $6 hour-long massages (and they are legitimate massages), or $3 hour-long foot massages. Heaven.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Day train to Chiang Mai


We took a 13-hour train ride from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, which is in the mountains of northern Thailand. The trip took us past temples (including one teeming with monkeys, below) through rice paddies and small villages, and into the jungle. It was beautiful.


The train was pretty bare bones; Amtrak it ain't. Of the two bathrooms, one was a squat toilet. The train was bouncing and careening to an alarming degree at times. How exactly is one supposed to balance on a squat toilet through that? The other toilet had a seat, but just a hole in the bottom going right to the ground. So you were essentially going directly on the tracks. But the bathrooms also had an open window that you could stick you head out and smell the air as it got cooler the higher we climbed into the mountains.


It was a fun experience, even if we were a bit hungry because the only meal they served the entire trip had meat in it. We just ate the white rice served with it. :)