Friday, December 30, 2011

Overnight train back to Bangkok

We got our own little compartment on the overnight train back to Bangkok and it was actually really cozy. Really small, but really cozy. Check it out - this is the entire room:



Also, check out the tiny, narrow hallway that many Americans would barely fit down:


At about 7 p.m. they come and make your beds up for you. We had an upper and a lower bunk, complete with reading lights (which was helpful because my Nook, which I love, does not have a light).



When we arrived in Bangkok we had a couple of hours before our plane took off to Siem Reap, so we grabbed a tuk-tuk and went straight to the Grand Palace, which we missed the first time around. The palace is on a compound of beautiful, opulent buildings. The palace itself is covered in gold and mirrored tiles that shimmer and glisten in the sun. It was quite impressive.









Thursday, December 29, 2011

Hanging out in Chiang Mai


Chiang Mai is a great city to just hang out in. Filled with temples, markets, book stores, cafes, fresh fruit smoothies and $5 massage shops, it's a city you could imagine never leaving. And judging by the looks of it, some people never do. You see many an aging hippy running around in their flip flops with their long gray hair and gray beards looking like they just forgot to go home 40 years ago. Yeah, Chiang Mai is that kind of place.



We only meant to stay here for seven nights but ended up spending 10. We were supposed to head next to an island on the Andaman coast, but because it's close to New Year's Eve, there are no rooms to be found anywhere. So we'll be making a detour and heading off to Siem Reap, Cambodia instead, home of Angkor Wat and other amazing ancient temples. So we bid Chiang Mai a fond adieu. We really enjoyed our time here.

















Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Sweater dogs and homeless pets



It has been a very difficult trip for our animal-loving hearts here in Thailand. We have been shocked by the sheer number of homeless pets running around loose all over Bangkok and Chiang Mai. You literally cannot go one block without seeing a stray or two.

They are especially prevalent at temples, where people dump unwanted pets because they know the monks will feed them. There is no such thing as an animal shelter or humane society in this part of the world, and spay/neuter programs are unheard of, so they breed freely, creating even more unwanted animals. The street animals here are filthy and mangy and unloved, and it's heartbreaking to see. Many are feral. But the few that aren't are so desperate for love they just soak it up when you give it to them. We've been trying to give as much love as we can.

But even the animals that are pets are allowed to run around loose. Here's the curious thing: the dogs here that ARE pets all wear sweaters. In Thailand. Hot, humid, tropical Thailand. It is hilarious to see these dogs running around wearing clothes. Some have coats, some have basketball jerseys; we even saw a little dog with a Winnie the Pooh hoodie.

Unfortunately, I have had to become more cautious with the dogs here. As my mom wisely said, not every animal knows how much I love it.

I came frighteningly close to being attacked by a wild dog at a seemingly deserted temple in Chiang Mai. We wandered on to the temple grounds and it felt like a ghost town. There was garbage piled up, the monks' dorms appeared to be abandoned, and there wasn't another soul in sight. I was walking past an open door to the dorms when I noticed a dog sleeping in the hallway, about 30 feet away from me. As soon as I passed the doorway, I heard a low growl. I took that as my cue to leave, so I started walking away. Then I heard the growl getting closer and louder, so I started walking faster and faster. My heart began racing. Soon the dog was right on my heels, snarling, and I felt his nose touch my leg. I was sure he was going to bite. I was running through my head what to do when a dog attacks, but all I could remember was what to do when a bear or shark attacks. Not helpful.

Thankfully he didn't bite, he just nudged. But by then some other dogs on the property had begun howling and barking and gathering together, and I was picturing the headline, "Tourists mauled by wild pack of dogs." I called out to Bob and we quickly exited the premises with all limbs and fingers intact. But it was a scary moment. I assume those dogs have taken over the property and become quite territorial, because their reaction to me was completely unprovoked.

Thank goodness we got those rabies shots, huh?
















Monday, December 26, 2011

A surprise blessing

The other day we wandered into a quiet temple in the middle of Chiang Mai, and there sat a monk with a cat curled up at his side. He beckoned us over, had us kneel in front of him, and began chanting a blessing while tying a string around our wrists for good fortune.

He didn't speak any English, but he had the biggest smile on his face, and laughed while I (of course) played with his cat. It was such a wonderful moment.




Saturday, December 24, 2011

Best Christmas Eve ever


What better way to spend Christmas Eve away from home than volunteering with rescued elephants? We spent the day at Elephant Nature Park, a wonderful sanctuary for orphaned, injured and abused elephants.

The Thai people have a very conflicted relationship with elephants. These beautiful creatures are revered as a sacred religious symbol and are considered the emblem of the country. But in reality they are routinely exploited and abused. They used to be employed in logging camps, but when logging was outlawed, many elephants were abandoned or sent to work on the streets performing for tourists and begging for money. Today they are mainly used to give tourists rides through the jungle. Sadly, most of these tourists don't realize how these elephants were treated from the time they were babies.

There is an age-old tradition when training elephants from a very young age; the intention is to break their spirit. While at the sanctuary we watched a documentary that showed some men breaking a baby elephant. It was gut wrenching. They tie it up, poke it with sharp objects until it bleeds, hit it, and confine it to a small pen until it just gives up. This goes on for weeks. It was very tough to watch. You could see the fear and pain in the elephant's eyes, and hear it cry out. Then you could just see the light go out of its eyes. It is a cruel practice, especially when you know what loving, emotonal creatures elephants are. They mourn their dead, they form friendships, they protect each other's babies. They are very much like us.

The woman who founded Elephant Nature Park is working to change how elephants are treated in her society. She wants to work with villagers and mahouts (elephant trainers) to outlaw that method. She has taken in dozens of elephants that were badly mistreated or orphaned and given them a lifetime home. Which, for an animal that can live to 70, is no small thing.

We heard many heartbreaking stories that day, but the one that brought me to tears was the story of an elephant who was working at a logging camp and was being forced to work even as she was giving birth to her baby. As the baby was born it rolled down a hill and died. The mother elephant was so distraught she refused to work for days after that. In order to make her work, her mahout blinded her in both eyes.

Man's capacity for cruelty never ceases to amaze me.

There were many other sad stories, but each of these elephants has now ended up in the happiest of places. The sanctuary is located about an hour's drive north of Chiang Mai. The elephants have an enormous property to wander around on and many friends to hang out with. Each elephant has its own mahout, but these mahouts don't carry sticks, they form a relationship based on trust with their elephant and care for them.

As volunteers for the day, we got to feed the elephants their meal of watermelon and squash. You have to put the food near the tip of their trunk and let their trunk curl around it so they can put it in in their mouths. My favorite elephant to feed was a blind one, because you had to help guide her trunk to the food in your hands, so there was a lot of contact. She was so sweet.


After feeding time, we got to take the elephants into the river and give them a bath, which required us to throw buckets full of water at them. They were very good sports.

Of course after we bathed them, they went to a big mud puddle and proceeded to cover themselves with mud, which helps protect their skin from the sun. It was a blast to sit and watch them play in the mud, especially the babies, who rolled around and sat on each other.

Being at the elephant sanctuary was such an amazing experience, I wish we'd been able to volunteer for a week. To be able to walk among these incredible animals was a dream come true.

To donate to this wonderful cause, visit www.elephantnaturepark.org.

And now on to a ridiculous number of elephant photos.